Words & photos by Dave Yasuda
Here we go, marching into the depths of fall, the time of Halloween and pumpkin spice. Personal note: I only love pumpkin spice when it’s in pumpkin pie, so you won’t find any fall spice items here.
You will find one dozen different things to eat in a wide range of locations and price points.
Something these 12 items have in common is a restaurant or business run by people who are deeply invested in what they put in front of their customers. That passion shows up in the food, the service and the overall experience. These are the places where you can taste love in every bite.
1. Duck Confit Cassoulet at Avery Brasserie
Cassoulet is a dish that just tastes better when the temperature starts to drop. Historically, it was prepared by French peasants using whatever ingredients they had on hand. Chef Cal Elliott’s take on this humble dish starts with creamy white beans and goes upscale with a Long Island duck leg, house made Toulouse sausage, pork belly and Boise River lamb: all topped with herbed breadcrumbs. Rich, savory and openly decadent. Enjoy it with a glass of Burgundy, and for a moment everyone around you will be speaking in French.
📍The Avery Hotel & Brasserie, 1010 W Main St Ste 100, Boise
2. Breakfast Burrito at High Note Cafe
A great breakfast burrito has balanced flavors and varying textures. It’s filled with delicious ingredients, then grilled until golden brown for a crisp bite. The High Note succeeds on all these levels. Tofu scramble, red potatoes, black bean puree, kale, red onion and two kinds of salsa, avocado and red, are lovingly rolled into a flour tortilla. Grilled (of course) and served with a side of bright cilantro lime sauce. Vegans rejoice and meat eaters prepared to be pleasantly surprised.
📍High Note Cafe, 225 N 5th St, Boise
3. Fresh Hop Craft Beers
For aficionados of the hoppy kind, October is the height of fresh hop beer season. Beer is usually brewed with dry hops, but for a short window of time craft brewers rush raw hop cones from the field to their kettles. If everything goes right this happens within a day. The result is beer, usually IPAs, but also ales, with rich botanical notes and elements of freshness (duh) and an essence of chlorophyll. Bottom line, if you like craft beer, you’ll enjoy the limited run of fresh hop beers. Most places that sling beer should have fresh hops. My top fresh hop beer so far is the Von Ebert Brewing Fresh Hop Volatile Substance IPA. I just quaffed one at Madre Restaurante this week.
4. Egg Salad Sandwich at Janjou Pâtisserie
When it comes to high end, authentic French pastries and desserts, Janjou Patisserie is top of mind. Don’t sleep on Pastry Chef Moshit Mizrachi-Gabbitas’ savory items. Her simple, but perfect, egg salad sandwich is a light and buttery brioche orb, garnished with sesame seeds and filled with egg, mayo, Dijon and topped with herbs. It’s elegant with a subtle richness that is deeply satisfying. The most difficult decision of my day was selecting a pastry to enjoy after devouring the sandwich.
📍Janjou Pâtisserie, 1754 W State St, Boise
5. Gyoza Pop-Up at Art Haus Cocktail Bar by KIN
Some of the best bites I’ve enjoyed over the past few years were served at Art Haus pop-ups. Themes ranging from the Olympics to the Idaho state fair have inspired unique dishes offered for a limited time. Drop in any Wednesday this month for their Gyoza pop-up. There were two savory and luscious options the night I stopped by: pork and mushroom. Both fillings were made with shredded cabbage and seasoned with ginger, scallions, garlic and tamari. The house made wrappers literally bring it all together and have a satisfying bite with just the right amount of resistance. A punchy ponzu dipping sauce is served on the side. Enjoy these crescent shaped Japanese dumplings, beautifully folded by hand from 4 PM until they run out.
📍Art Haus Cocktail Bar by KIN, 999 W Main St Ste P101, Boise
6. Croissant Quiche at Burread Bakery
Baker Mike Burr uses local, seasonal ingredients in his baked goods, be they salty, sweet or savory. You’ll find irrestistible sourdough breads, croissants, tarts and pastries at the counter but the Croissant Quiche is on my list this month. A buttery laminated croissant base is filled with Happy Hen’s eggs, Kerrygold sharp cheddar and Ansot’s Basque chorizo. This is a study in contrasting textures and flavors that harmonize wonderfully. It’s just the right size – I can eat one and still have room for a pastry.
📍Burread Bakery, 600 S 9th St, Boise
7. Creamy Onion Chicken Wings at Han’s Chimaek
The menu at Han’s is stripped down to the essentials – fried chicken and beer. Despite this simplicity, you do have a few choices to make when you walk in the door. Choose regular or boneless wings and one of five sauces. Classic Buffalo sauce is popular, as is Yangnyum with sweet and spicy Korean flavors. I like to mix it up and get the Creamy Onion, a sweet and savory sauce topped with a generous amount of shaved sweet onion. Order up your favorite draft beer or opt for a tall bottle of Sapporo and you’re in for a perfect evening.
📍Han’s Chimaek, 1716 S Broadway Ave, Boise
8. Alaskan Sablefish at Terroir Bistro
I had this dish earlier this year and have been thinking about it all summer. A beautiful sablefish filet from Fairweather Fish Co. is seared crisp on the skin side and served with squash and fennel salad, carrots, fines herbes and soubise, the classic onion based French sauce. Chef Nate Whitley goes as local as possible sourcing vegetables and herbs from Broken Spoke Collective, Sundog Farm, Fiddler’s Green Farm and Purple Sage Farm. Co-owner Remi Courcenet always finds the best wine for each dish like this white Burgandy from his small but inspired wine list.
📍Terroir Bistro, 160 N 8th St, Boise
9. GF Orange Raspberry Scone at Flourish Bakery
Co-owners Danielle Burns and Sarah Davis are known for their macarons with delicate almond shells and creative fillings. They added cheesecake and unique cakes in a jar and realized they were naturally gluten-free. The scone in question has a crisp exterior, moist center with the right amount of fruit. The first time I tried it I didn’t realize it was gluten free. While the bakery is not certified GF, they carefully schedule different days and times to create gluten-free items.
📍Flourish Bakery, 3203 W Chinden Blvd #1, Garden City
10. Beef Stroganoff at Alyonka
Chef Elena DeYoung calls her cuisine authentic Russian comfort food and it is the perfect description for her made-from-scratch dishes. This ain’t your grandmother’s stroganoff (unless you have a Russian grandma). Tender slow cooked beef is coated in a velvety sour cream sauce and sits atop your choice of egg noodles, buckwheat or rice. I’m told buckwheat is the authentic choice, but those noodles are so gratifying to my palate I just can’t resist. Even though the portions are generous, save room for the honey cake, a stack of thin sponge cake layers with sour cream frosting in between. You won’t regret it.
📍Alyonka Russian Cuisine, 2870 W State St, Boise
11. OG Crispy Taco at Madre Restaurante
Chef John Cuevas was a James Beard finalist for Best Chef: Pacific before he brought his unconventional tacos to Boise. You’ll find Pork Belly Banh Mi, Korean Short Rib, Idaho Spud & Chorizo and more, but on Tuesdays, Madre presents the OG Crispy; a gourmet take on a fast-food double decker taco. John says it’s the only time you’ll find ground beef in a Madre taco. A crisp shell taco is wrapped in a refried beans and a flour tortilla with a savory fan of grilled cheese. Go early because they usually sell out. Secret tip: Madre quietly has one of the best selections of craft beer in town.
📍Madre, 1034 S La Pointe St, Boise
12. Spicy Pasta Arrabbiata at Amanda’s European Café
Chef Amanda Turner and her daughters run this welcoming Bench neighborhood hang that features scratch made dishes for breakfast, lunch and weekend dinners. The menu is short but sweet with about a half dozen items, but it covers a lot of ground. The Arrabbiata starts with fresh Ferranti pasta topped with the right amount of house made marinara. Parmesan and ribbons of fresh basil finish the dish. A wedge of toasted garlic bread comes along for the ride. The kicker to this flavorful dish is the price: $10. I’d gladly pay more and still feel like I got a great deal – and meal
📍Amanda’s European Cafe, 217 S Roosevelt St Suite B, Boise
Thanks for reading!
With love from Boise,
Marissa
This story was written by Dave Yasuda. Dave is a writer, eater, cyclist, and director of Foodfort at Treefort Music Fest. His writing has appeared in Bicycling, Wired, and the New York Time’s The Wirecutter. View his food thoughts on Instagram: @highzoot
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